The main reason we came to Koh Lanta was because I had read that the snorkelling was really good at Koh Rok and Koh Haa, a couple of small islands in the Andaman Sea that was rather close to Koh Lanta. So, was it?

Yesterday, I had frantically searched around for a tour that would go to Koh Rok on a big boat (i.e. not a speedboat). I read that the sea could be rough at times and a speedboat would be uncomfortable. There was one tour company, Opal Travel, that offered to go to both Koh Rok and Koh Haa on a catamaran (for THB 1800 = AUD 80.50, including a national park fee of THB 400). The other big boats (diving boats) went out to Koh Haa only, and the few I rang up were quite expensive, which I found strange as a snorkeller would require less looking after and equipment than a diver.

I had read that Koh Rok was great for snorkelling but not for diving as it was shallow. However, Koh Haa was better for diving as the area around the islands were deeper. There were sections that required divers to be at an advanced level as they would be required to go rather deep.

Opal Travel

Our pick up time was 8:20 am so we woke up around 7:45 am. The guy who picked us up was 10 minutes early. He arrived in a minivan and we were the first ones to be picked up. Filling up his minivan didn’t take that long and then he drove to Phra Ae Beach park, where we would board the catamaran. There were other tour groups boarding their speedboats at the same spot. I recognised most of the tour company names - proof I did a lot of research!

Upon boarding, a photographer with a DSLR took our photo. I was helped onto the boat by a staff member who greeted me before grabbing my arm. Already, I could feel the quality compared to the long boat tour we took at Koh Phi Phi.

Everyone got on the boat and I chose to sit near the back. We were seated behind two girls from Austria. I popped my sea sickness pill just in case. The boat headed south to make 3 more stops to pick up more people before sailing for Koh Rok. In total, there were 50 people on board (including around 6 staff). The tour leader, Mr Joe was a bit of an interesting character. He referred to people by where they came from, so we were “his friends from Australia” who were on the tour to “see some Kangaroos underwater”. He kept borderline hitting on the chicks seated behind us who were from Venezuela and he said they were sexy and beautiful (because they were from the land of most Miss Universes) but he felt bad for their country, but welcome to his country, Thailand! It sounded creepy and inappropriate but I don’t really think he was being malicious.

Koh Rok

The ride to Koh Rok only took about 45 minutes. The ride was rather smooth, so I had little to worry about! We didn’t bounce up and down as much as the other speedboats did. Joe told us he was our friend, he was not our guide but our friend who we could trust. Joe was our father, Joe was our boyfriend, Joe was our girlfriend! Joe was our friend forever. Yes, he really did say this. He was SO enthusiastic, it was like he had done lines of coke prior to boarding the boat.

We were handed out Opal branded bottles of water and Joe told us there was juice and biscuits up the front if anyone was peckish. He and his team had “EVERYTHING for EVERYONE!!!”

The first stop was Koh Rok Yai, where some staff members disembarked to set up for lunch. Then the boat headed for Ko Rok Noi and we got to jump in for the first time. Opal provided us with life jackets, snorkels and flippers. I wore all of it as I was lazy.

The snorkelling was ok here. We found more Nemos (clownfish) and anenome. The coral was unfortunately mostly bleached. There seemed to be more fish but overall not too different to the snorkelling around Phi Phi. We were here for 30 minutes before moving on to the adjacent bay. Here, it was mostly the same but Joe pointed out some thicker striped Nemos.

We all got back on the boat and went to Koh Rok Yai for lunch. There was a floating pier here, which I suppose is more environmentally friendly but wobbly. Joe told us Massaman chicken and potatoes, vegetables and fried chicken was on the menu. There was “food for everybody, don’t worry!!” He even said to some random people, “My Chinese friends, you can sit anywhere you like!” I don’t think he realised that they were not the same Chinese people from our group. Everyone lined up and helped themselves to the food. The fried chicken ran out a couple of people before us but a guy simply reached into his esky and produced a big plastic bag of fried chicken and emptied it out.

The food wasn’t bad. I noticed later that most of the other tour groups had their customers eating the same thing. There must only be one caterer on the island of Koh Lanta.

A had found a trail, so after lunch we had a sticky beak. There was a sign saying that it was a 1.2km loop that could be done in 1 hour. Unfortunately we didn’t have an hour, and 1.2km in an hour is awfully slow, unless it wasn’t flat. We went to the first viewpoint and climbed some stairs for a little bit before giving up. We simply didn’t have the time.

Instead, we walked back to the beach. There was a section where swimming wasn’t allowed but it was pretty there so we went to have a look and take some photos. You could see both Koh Rok Noi and Koh Rok Yai together. The water was so beautiful and clear.

After photos we walked back to the main beach where I went in for a dip and snorkel. The swimming area was roped off but it was required for all to wear life jackets if you were swimming. Not that I minded, as I was lazy and hate treading water. I got about 20, 30 metres away from shore but the coral was no good. There was some fish and I saw a few really big fish but nothing remarkable otherwise.

Koh Haa

At 1:10pm we all got back on to the boat to head off to Rok Haa. It also took about 45 minutes. Koh Haa means Five Islands. As you can imagine, this was a cluster of five islands. We stopped at Koh Haa Yai (the largest island of the cluster) as the lagoon at Koh Haa was rather busy. There were quite a number of speedboats and diving boats all crowded around. Neither island had much of a beach; they both consisted mainly of limestone karsts.

We jumped in one last time. Joe was very excited to be a guide and led the way and a good bunch of us followed him. He told us he would show us a baby shark… now where did I hear that before?

It was indeed quite deep here, with coral about 4-5 meters away from the surface. There were some interesting mini caves along the island but I was too shy to go take a look. One guy did and was rewarded with a Moray and Turtle. Sigh. Regardless, this area was still rather interesting. There were loads of starfish lying on coral compared to the one starfish we saw back in Koh Phi Phi. Joe made us swim a long way out of the roped area but no baby shark was to be seen. Finally he told us to swim back to the boat, where they had set up an large inflatable slide. A and I went up to the top deck and slid off the slide, which was a nice cheap thrill.

Then we headed back onto the boat where tea and coffee was made available but I stuck to water. They took the boat past the lagoon where we were allowed to take photos. They told us that they usually went there too to snorkel but today it was too busy.

Heading back to Koh Lanta

We sailed for Koh Lanta. The Opal staff handed out more watermelon and pineapple. Joe gave his final speech about how proud he was of his team and his company and that everyone should rate them 5 stars on TripAdvisor. “We have seen Koh Rok, we have seen Koh Haa, we have the big lunch, we have the giant slider (sic), we have pineapple, we have watermelon, WE HAVE EVERYTHING”. Joe thanked everyone for joining him and his crew and then he walked around with a tip jar.

The boat ride back was fine. I didn’t need seasickness pills after all but it was a good precaution. A and I were dropped off at Phra Ae Beach park where they had set up a table and were selling the photo they took of us in the morning, which was placed in a tacky frame that they were pandering for THB 200. We shook hands with Joe on the way out.

A songthaew was waiting for us at the park; this time they only took us and another party (Swedish guy and his baby). We got dropped off, had a shower and napped for a bit.

Alrak restaurant

For dinner we walked north along the main road, instead of south. We walked past many small bars which were really shacks with neon lights that kind of looked seedy. Each had Thai chicks sitting around.

We walked into Papaya restaurant but I was not happy with their lack of organisation. The back of the restaurant looked like a mess.

So we kept walking north and decided on Alrak restaurant, which looked like it had a few locals in it (a rare sight). A ordered a “spicy chilli stir fry” which was not spicy in any way, contrary to the name of the dish. It was quite peppery and garlicky, however. I thought it was nice but A was not impressed.

In my attempt to order something different from the usual tourist fare (which seemed like it was all they sold, unfortunately. i.e. Curry/Pad Thai/Fried Rice/Generic stir fry noodle) I ordered a “sour sauce” chicken. It was basically Cantonese sweet and sour sauce but not as good. I was disappointed. Where was all the good food???

Final thoughts on Koh Lanta

• WHERE IS THE GOOD FOOD HIDING???
• Less tourists here but then it is a rather large island. We actually barely saw any of it. There’s a national park at the Southern tip of the island and numerous other beaches such as Bamboo beach. There’s no transportation so if you really want to explore, the most economical way is to hire a scooter but we didn’t want to do that.
• The Koh Rok and Koh Haa tour was nice, but pricy, although it was obvious why. The boat was in nice condition and the staff were friendly. The islands were nice but the coral is sadly mostly destroyed. Would I recommend it? Maybe. The Phi Phi tour did offer a lot for the price we paid but this tour let us see more islands and do more snorkelling.